Conor Watkins' Ozark Mountain Experience

Field Trip Guide to the
Geology, Scenery, And History of The Salem Plateau of the Ozarks
–In The Buckhorn, Dixon, and Rolla Areas
For The Fall 2003 MVOR hosted by MSM Spelunkers at Shriners Club, Buckhorn, MO - Oct 3-5, 2003
By Conor Watkins, University of Missouri - Rolla

Stop 1: The Clifty Creek Natural Arch

The Clifty Creek Natural Area, which is administered by the Missouri Department of Conservation, is home to Clifty Creek and a natural bridge.  Clifty Creek flows through a small canyon in places.  The Clifty Creek Natural Bridge is quite scenic and spans a small tributary of Clifty Creek.  The area is pretty all times of the year and some like to visit in the winter, as the area is much less overgrown.  Both the creek and the natural bridge are scenic and popular among photographers even though they are relatively remote.

The Clifty Creek Natural Bridge was formed when Little Clifty Creek, a tributary of Clifty Creek, undercut a drainage divide and was pirated by Clifty Creek.  It is likely that a cave or joint (fracture) in the rock originally served as a shortcut under the rocky ridge and was later enlarged to form the natural bridge.  It also appears that the same rocky ridge was once home another natural bridge just downstream.  Those who climb atop the ridge and walk in the downstream direction will notice that the ridge ends abrubtly at a steep dropoff with large boulders below.  These boulders are likely the remains of another natural bridge that has since collapsed.

Clifty Creek Natural Bridge as seen looking down Little Clifty Creek.  This
formation is the highlight of the Clifty Creek Conservation Area.


The natural bridge as seen from the main creek.

The area is home to another smaller natural bridge/cave just 300 or so yards downstream.  This feature is somewhat similar to Rock House Cave on the Current River.  As with Rockhouse Cave, this small two entranced cave appears to be the meander of a once larger cave system that was destroyed as Clifty Creek downcut in its valley. The two entrances of this cave remnant are spaced close together along the bluff line and only separated by a rock pillar.  This cave is small enough to be almost fully explored without a light, with the exception of a slightly taller dome room that is in the rear of the cave.

This picture essentially shows the entire extent of the cave from one of the
entrances.  The taller dome room is off to the right where the cave is darker.

This cave represents the end stage of a once larger system and its days are also numbered.  The rock pillar serving to support much of the cave and the bluff above is overstressed and slowly failing.  As rock pillars are compressed in the vertical direction, they expand laterally since they are not confined along the sides.  As this expansion occurs, tension is induced in the rock.  Rock is roughly ten times stronger in compression than tension so pieces tend to spall off overstressed pillars, giving them an hourglass shaped profile.  Sometimes pillars naturally reach a stable geometry, allowing them to remain in equilibrium.  It is the author's belief that this pillar will not reach a stable equilibrium and will continue to spall until it completely fails, possibly catastrophically.  The pillar is highly fractured and exposed to freeze thaw cycles common to Ozark winters.  Rock fragments have accumulated around the based of the pillar, indicating that the process has continued to progress in recent times. When the pillar fails, it is likely that much of the bluff above will also come crashing down.  Secondary jointing in the bluff is parallel to the face, creating a preferential failure zone once the pillar gives way.  Such a failure may happen tomorrow or thousands of years in the future.

This highly fractured pillar is overstressed and has taken on the typical
hourglass form.  Its failure will likely lead to the demise of the cave.

Although this small cave is officially called "Unnamed Cave #7", it has at least two local names including Clifty Hollow Cave and Red Man's Cave.  Local lore indicates that an Indian used the cave as a residence during the earlier part of 1900's, giving the cave this name.

Perhaps an Indian once had this view right out his front door.

Map of Clifty Hollow Cave - Click image for complete map.

Clift is an archaic English word meaning cliff.  Clifty Creek was most likely named because of the bluffs and cliffs in the area.  Large cliffs overhang the creek by 30-40 feet farther downstream of the bridge and make for interesting pictures.  This section of cliffs is quite large and continues for several hundred yards.

Overhanging bluffs add to the scenery at Clifty Creek.

Clift, an archaic English word meaning cliff, is appropriate word to be used in
the naming of Clifty Creek.  This is the view seen from a low water crossing
over Clifty Creek a little past the parking area.

DIRECTIONS - To Clifty Creek:

Take Hwy 17 north from Shriners around a mile to I-44.  Turn right and head east to the Highway 28 north exit (exit 163).  Turn left and cross I-44.  Pull into the green Voss Express Filling Station where one can purchase gas, food, and use the restroom.  From this point, head north past Dixon, MO and turn right onto Hwy W, which is approximately 13 miles north of the Hwy 28/I-44 interchange.  Follow Hwy W until it turns to gravel and proceed around a mile past the parking lot for the Clifty Creek Conservation Area, which is on the left.  After passing under large power lines, pull over near a fire road that has been blocked by several small, short wooden posts and some large rocks.  This access point, located on the left side of the road, is shortest trail to Clifty Hollow and its natural bridge.  It is quite rugged and strenuous by Missouri standards so those wanting to take it easy may want to park at the parking lot and take the slightly longer but much less strenuous hiking trail.

Follow this trail and bear right as it heads down the hill.  The trail will join the creek almost right at the bridge.  This point makes for an excellent viewing area of the bridge as does the vantage on the other side of the bridge.  To get to the overhanging cliffs, one can either walk about one half mile downstream or drive farther down the road and park near the next low water crossing, which also offers a scenic view from the road.  Simply walk upstream less than one-quarter mile to the cliffs.  Be aware that the hiking of steep hills is involved and the area could be dangerous if one were to slip.  Also, be aware that some of the land adjacent to the creek is private property. “No Trespassing” signs and purple/pink paint on the trees mark the private property.

Much of the Pioneer Forest, which contains Clifty Creek is actually privately owned by Leo Drey and the LAD Foundation.  The LAD Foundation promotes conservation and outdoor recreation by preserving land their land while allowing public use.  Many of their lands are administered by other agencies such as the Missouri Dept. of Conservation (MDC) and the Missouri Dept. of Natural Resources (DNR).

While on the way to or from Clifty Creek, one may want to visit Portuguese Point.  Portuguese Point is located just off of Hwy 28 on the left side about five miles south of Dixon.  Portuguese Point is a rock promontory overlooking the Gasconade River.  The river divides below the point and the bluffs are around 250 feet tall at this location.  From Portuguese Point, one can look out for miles and see the river, forests, and farm fields.  The area was originally named for Portuguese farmers who once raised cattle and sheep in the valley below.  This scenic overlook can be reached from a pull-off along the road or from the Point Steakhouse, a restaurant with a very similar view.  Diners at this restaurant are provided a scenic view of the Gasconade River Valley.

Portuguese Point offers a scenic view of the Gasconade River Valley.

Postcard (date unknown) - back reads "Portuguese Point is located on Route 28
leading to Dixon, MO.  A short drive only 2 miles north of U.S. Highway 66,
near Devil's Elbow, Mo., commanding a picturesque view of the Gasconade
River Valley."

(C) 2004 by Conor Watkins