The Big Piney River Revisted

Conor Watkins' Ozark Mountain Experience
Article 72
The Big Piney River Revisited
By Conor Watkins

The Big Piney River Revisited

The Big Piney River as viewed from the old Mason Bridge.

Past articles have highlighted float trips on the Big Piney River of the Missouri Ozarks but another trip to the river brought about a whole new set of experiences worth sharing. June 28, 2003 marked my fourth trip to the river. This trip consisted of a 15 mile float between the Boiling Spring Access and Slabtown Bridge. As usual, no one on the trip was disappointed. A total of six were in the group, including a married Japanese couple who are also students at UMR. They had never been on a float trip in the Ozarks but found the experience enjoyable.

The weather cooperated, as it was a beautiful sunny day with a high of around 86 degrees. There were very few other floaters on the river and it seemed we had our own private river. This was probably was not the case at the Meramec and other more well known rivers on that same day. The only complaint on the trip was the number of biting flies that swarmed at certain locations. These had never been experienced on any previous floats to any river and may have been newly hatched.

Canoes for the trip were rented from Scott Wade, owner of Wade’s On The Edge Resort near Licking, MO. Although right beside the road, this location is easy to pass up, as the sign near the road is relatively small. A previous canoe rental had taken place at the Boiling Springs Resort just down the hill but we were recommended to try Wade’s On The Edge, as they were said to be more friendly and down-home than other locations. This recommendation was accurate, as our host was talkative, friendly, and provided a great wealth of information about the local history and scenery of the area. Our canoes were in excellent shape and none leaked water.

Upon starting from the Boiling Spring Access, it was noticed that the first part of the river was relatively slow but slightly higher and faster than normal due to recent rains. It was much like the portion previously floated above Boiling Spring but a little wider and deeper. A spring known as Burnett Spring flowed in from the left bank. The spring itself is privately owned and is not visible from the river.

Two rope swings and a simple dock/platform were discovered along the right bank of the river. Everyone decided to stop and give the swings a try. The setup included a crudely constructed platform from which to climb onto the ropes and swing out over the river. Although wobbly, it did not collapse under anyone’s weight. The stone foundation from an old riverside cabin was present just above the swings.

We stopped for lunch a little after noon at the the Missouri Conservation Department's Mason Bridge Access, which is right next to the old Mason Bridge. This location was approximately one third of the way into the trip. The bridge (now closed) consists of one main truss span and two smaller pony trusses serving as approach spans. The deck consists entirely of wooden planking, with most of that being covered by asphalt pavement. The wooden deck is exposed on a portion of one approach span. The builder’s plates for the bridge were still intact at the time of the float, allowing us to find that the bridge was constructed in 1926. The bridge is typical of the simple steel truss style built in the Ozarks during the 1910’s-1920’s.

Additional Picture

Various pictures showing the structure of the old Mason Bridge including
its structure and exposed wooden decking.

Mason Bridge builders' plate.
"1926, CONCRETE & STEEL CONSTRUCTION CO., JOPLIN. MO.
J.J. POWERS, JNC. STITES, A.F. WILSON - COUNTY COURT
O.L. GENTRY - COUNTY CLERK"

After the float it was discovered that the bridge had been closed for only a year, if even that long. A semi-truck had fallen through a portion of the bridge in 1997 or so, give or take a year. This happened on the approach span with wood decking exposed. The section appeared to have undergone recent repairs and that the pavement simply wasn’t replaced before the bridge’s closure. Although slightly rusty on the surface, the steel structure remains in remarkably solid condition, even underneath the deck.

After walking around on the bridge, the Japanese couple decided to inquire at a local residence about using the restroom. Although the location was plastered with “No Trespassing” and “Keep Out” signs, the two were welcomed to use the restroom. They signs are probably meant to deter those passing by on the river who might want to cause trouble or litter the property. The owners must have realized no harm was intended but probably wondered where two so obviously foreign people came from in the middle of the rural Ozarks. The couple was innocent of stereotypes that have developed due to angry landowners chasing people and concerns of racism, but luckily the property owners were very hospitable.

After leaving Mason Bridge, the gradient of the river increased, but there were still plenty of slow eddies to paddle through. A very scenic spring known by locals as Roaring Spring and Falling Spring entered from the right bank about halfway through the trip. This spring issues from the bluff about 15 or so feet above the river and cascades down over moss covered rocks. The water is cool and clear, making for an excellent location to soak the feet on a hot day.

Falling (or Roaring) Spring on the Big Piney makes for an excellent location
to soak the feet on a hot day.

During the last third of the trip, the height of the bluffs increased and the river started to meander around more twists and turns. This was by far the most scenic portion of the trip. Vultures were commonly seen circling above the bluffs. Upon talking to others before the trip, I learned of the location of ruins of an old resort along the river. The site is invisible from the Big Piney except for the remains of an old boat ramp. This ramp is present along the right bank of the river and consists of crumbling concrete, two steel I-beams along with old railroad track, and a hand railing protruding towards the river. It was encountered 2.5-3 miles from the end of the trip. The resort is said to be quite elaborate but no one was dressed to brave the insane numbers of thorny wild multiflora rose bushes and poison ivy vines guarding the site. A visit must be done by those in tough clothing, on a float trip during the fall or winter when the growth is less, or by driving to a local access road.

Additonal Picture

Scenic bluffs appear during the last third of the trip between Boiling Spring
and Slabtown Bridge.

Big Paddy Creek enters the Big Piney on the left just around the next bend where the river splits to go around an island. At the time of our float, the right side of the island was much deeper and had less debris buildup, so this route was chosen. Unfortunately, floaters taking the right side of the island will miss the confluence of Big Paddy Creek.

The trip ended at the Slabtown Bridge, which carries county Highway AF over the Big Piney River. Slabtown, as it once was, no longer exists but the name has its roots in the history of the area and the use of the river to transport ties downstream. Slabtown was home to a saw mill, which cut logs with a round cross section to a rectangular profile. Four “slabs” of wood were left from this operation. Instead of letting this wood go to waste, the workers built cabins and other structures out of the slabs. This use of leftover wood products gave the area its name, as the town was essentially built out of slabs. The exact area containing the settlement is now owned by private individuals and the simple wooden structures have disappeared. Although the namesake is no longer around, the name remains at nearby Slabtown Spring, Slabtown River Access, and Slabtown Bridge.

While waiting for our return shuttle under Slabtown Bridge, some interesting folks were observed. It looked as though several families were living under the bridge. Some were living in a tent tucked up under the bridge while others were residing in and around old cars without license plates. Babies and young children were sleeping on blankets in the shadow of the structure above. There was a fire ring filled with the remains of cans, bottles, several burned tires, and other miscellaneous trash. It did not look like a pleasant life, but everyone at the location seemed friendly.

The trip back to our vehicles traversed several scenic country roads through the forested Ozarks and gave everyone an excellent view of the Big Piney and its valley. The forests atop the bluffs contain many shortleaf pine trees, which gave the river its name. The bluffs are capped by Roubidoux sandstone, which weathers to produce acidic soils, allowing the pines to thrive. The Roubidoux sandstone also weathers at a slower rate than the underlying Gasconade dolomite, allowing it to serve as a protective caprock over the weaker dolomite below. If the sandstone layer were not present, the Gasconade Formation would likely have weathered to a much more subdued profile and not the sheer, scenic bluffs seen along the Big Piney and other streams in the central Ozarks.

Notice that the pines are growing atop the bluffs in the Roubidoux sandstone
and not the Gasconade dolomite below. The Gasconade dolomite would have
weathered to a more subdued profile without the Roubidoux Formation
to serve as a caprock.

To get to Wade’s On The Edge Resort, take Hwy 63 south from Rolla about 40 miles to Hwy BB, which branches off on the right about 3 miles past Licking, MO. Take Hwy BB 7 miles west to the resort, which is on the left before driving down a big hill to the river. Camping, cabin, kayaks, rafts, and paintball are also offered at the resort. See www.wadesontheedge.com or call 573-647-4532 for more information. To read previous articles on the Big Piney, see http://web.umr.edu/~cwatkin/cwome/article42-45combined.htm.