Conor Watkins' Ozark Mountain Experience
Article 33&34 Combined
In Defense of Steelville, MO 65565 - The Middle of America

In Defense of Steelville, MO 65565 - The Middle of America

Upon opening to the article, one finds a large picture of a gun lying across a bar room table with a Budweiser sign in the background.  The article starts by saying, “On a perfect Sunday afternoon in Steelville, MO, a hundred of its more prominent residents are holed up in the long corrugated metal warehouse of the private country club on Highway 8.”  After this opening statement, there is a description of the men crowding tables with cans of Stag Beer and shooting guns for target practice, which was part of a high school fundraiser.  It seems the author wants to make it real obvious that this isn’t the Augusta National or the Pebble Beach Country Club.

Upon turning to the next page, one finds a less than flattering picture of downtown Steelville.  The picture shows one man crossing an otherwise empty Main Street in front of a diesel dump truck.  The day is overcast and diesel exhaust mixes with fog from the nearby Meramec River, giving the city the look of an uninhabited ghost town.  The article then goes on to tell how the land is good for nothing but growing trees and just enough corn, beans, and taters to survive.   It states that the land is unbountiful but beautiful.  More than half of all Steelville residents make less than $15,000 per year and hunting provides an important part of their diet.  The author states that hunting and fishing fit a fine line between recreation and nutrition in Steelville.

Although it is not directly stated, the article implies that this form of living is backward and somehow inferior to buying meat at a store, as most people do.  The writer of the article doesn’t seem to realize that his meat originates in "packages" with fur coats or feathers and doesn’t just appear in the typical shrink-wrapped Styrofoam packages on store shelves.

The next page shows some rough looking characters singing karaoke in a dark dingy looking bar room.  A birthday party near town is then visited.  Party goers drink cans of Stag and eat charred venison steaks against the side of a logging truck as the birthday boy receives lewd novelty items as gifts.

Perhaps the most positive part of the article is found on the last two pages.  It is mentioned that some residents stay here by choice, as they are happy in Steelville, although other opportunities were presented.  A father and son who enjoy the outdoors are happy cutting timber from the woods while spending their free time hunting and fishing in the same woods.  Others came to the town from elsewhere to open up small businesses on Main Street.  Although the two business owners mentioned are women who moved from elsewhere, the article then states, “For women Steelville seems like a posting in a foreign land, something you make the best of.”  This makes the town sound as though it is some sort of prison where there is no escape.

The National Geographic Society is headquartered on the east coast in Washington, DC and these writers came form New York City.  It seems the magazine author looks down on rural America and its absence of a flashy appearance.  It is true that the Ozarks are not perfect and some residents are quite unusual.  I have had experiences that would make the writer of this article drool, such as being approached by a Ku Klux Klan recruiter.  Most all big cities also have their less desirable parts with drugs, crime, and other unusual activities.  I grew up in St. Louis, have visited other cities, and know they are far from being perfect.   Although the article on Steelville on mentioned that many residents hunt with guns, one never reads about drive-by shootings in Steelville.  The same cannot be said for most large cities such as New York.

The average Ozarker is politically and morally conservative, independent, straightforward in their beliefs, patriotic, friendly, and very hospitable.  Some may notice bumper stickers and signs in the Ozarks that they wouldn’t see in a big city.   Some of these such as, “God, Guns, Guts, and Glory made America great, lets keep it that way”, may offend outsiders, but these are the principles our country was founded upon.  After September 11, the Rolla Wal-Mart sold out of American flags within hours, and couldn't be kept on store shelves for weeks afterward.  On another day, I was waiting in line at the post office just before a class.  Another patron noticed that I was watching my watch and appeared to be in a hurry.  She offered to mail my package to save me time and money.  I refused, but thanked her for the offer.  We talked the rest of the time I was there.

When I signed up to attend UMR, I didn’t come primarily because I was attracted to the area, but for the engineering education offered.  I knew that the Ozark landscape was beautiful from previous trips to the area, but never knew much about the people.  When I came from St. Louis, I had them pictured as uneducated hillbillies.  This is far from the truth.  Even many non-college educated Ozarkers have made a living out of their own resourcefulness and are far from being dumb.

Ozarkers seem to operate at a slower pace and are happy no matter their position in life.  An Ozarker with extra time will think nothing of spending time talking to a complete stranger.  Employees at stores are friendlier and are usually willing to help the customer.  While shopping for a replacement auto part, a worker at one parts store informed me on how to fix my problem without having to spend a penny.  When returning to my home in West St. Louis County, I find people rushing through life, and with no time to say hello to a stranger.  Even though they may own a Lexus and a fancy house, they somehow seem unhappy with their lot in life.

Although it may not be typical of vehicles seen in the suburbs,
the owner of this truck definitely has fun with his Ford.
Notice the "custom" fish hood ornament.

Near the very end of the November National Geographic, the author of the article is quoted as saying, “Going there from New York felt like traveling to another country.  The area is depressed, but the people aren’t.”  Others assigned to collecting information on the area also enjoyed being there and some still communicate with certain residents.  For some reason, such feelings were not expressed in the main article.

The headline story in the Nov 1st edition of the Rolla Daily News talks about Steelville’s response to the National Geographic article.  The residents of Steelville welcomed the magazine to their city with open arms and didn’t expect this type of article in return.  Residents are always willing to help each other out and have sent money to New York City to help families in need after September 11.  The Steelville Country Club, portrayed by National Geographic as a bunch of drunks with guns, has been helpful in many community improvement projects.  Churches also outnumber bars by a ratio of 6 to 1, which would never be known from the National Geographic article. These statistics could describe Rolla and many other Ozark towns.  A Yahoo search for “bars” in Rolla returned 5 entries.  The same search for “church” returned 58 entries.”  Many are attracted to Steelville and the surrounding area because of its friendly, family oriented atmosphere where children can be raised in an environment with less crime and drugs.  Steelville has a strong community spirit and a well-maintained park for people to enjoy.

It is true that the Ozarks provide for less than ideal agriculture.  The northern half of the state was glaciated during the last ice age.  The glaciers transported fertile soils from farther north, making this region excellent for agricultural purposes.  The southern part of Missouri, especially the topographically high Ozarks, was not glaciated.  The soils here are residual soils, consisting of clay impurities weathered from the mainly carbonate dolomite and limestone bedrock.  Only lowlands and the river valleys have very fertile soils.

The bottomlands support crops while the hills of the Ozarks provide only a
limited agricultural use.  This view is of the Dry Fork of The Upper
Meramec near Maramec Spring.

The National Geographic article fails to mention what the Ozarks have to offer in terms of economic resources.  It does mention that there are 18 camping and canoe/raft rental resorts nearby in a side box but doesn’t expand on this fact.  There nothing about the scenery of the areas’ rolling hills, clean rivers, or springs.  One of Steelville’s main industries is tourism, with many visitors coming to camp and float in the summer.  Steelville claims to be “The Floating Capitol of Missouri.”  This saying is in on the town’s signs and tourism brochures.  Residents are worried that this article might hurt future business.  One will not see a skyline of office buildings in the Steelville area.  Instead of concrete, steel, and glass, the Steelville skyline consists of wooded rolling hills and scenic bluffs.

The Ozark Skyline
One won't see a skyline of concrete, glass, and steel on the Ozarks.
Instead, one will see wooded rolling hills and scenic bluffs.

Early settlers made a living working the timber and mining industries.  The region’s abundant springs and rivers served as power sources for successful mills, which ground grain, cut wood, and crushed ores from the mining operations.  Although it was a hard living, most old timers have fond memories of their life in the Ozarks.

Immigrants from other countries, especially the Germans, found the Ozarks to resemble their homeland.  The residual soils of the Ozarks turned out to be excellent for vineyards.  The region still has a thriving wine producing industry today.

While much of rural Missouri may not offer artistic/cultural attractions such as Laumeier Sculpture Park, presented here last week, it is not without major tourist attractions.  Missouri’s scenic landscapes attract weekend visitors from St. Louis and other nearby towns, along with travelers from farther away, all wanting to relax for a while.  Missouri’s scenic rivers attract floaters wanting to enjoy some fun on the water.  Many parks, natural, and historic sites in rural Missouri attract tens of thousands of visitors per year.  Branson, Missouri has grown to be a popular Ozark destination nationwide for its music and shows.  Steelville is home to the Meramec Music Theatre, which claims that it is, “All the fun of a Branson show but without all the traffic.”

As indicated earlier, hunting and fishing are popular in Missouri.  Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World, started and headquartered in Springfield, MO offers almost anything for the hunter, fisherman, or participant of any other outdoor sport.  Wal-Mart, headquartered not far across the Missouri border in Bentonville, Arkansas, has become one of the world’s most profitable businesses.  It has grown dramatically since it opened in 1962, no matter the economic conditions.  This store from the rural Ozarks is now the world’s largest retailer, the worlds largest company in terms of sales, and the second largest employer in the U.S. behind the federal government.  Wal-Mart’s own brand of outdoor related sporting goods is named “Ozark Trail” after the trail through Southern Missouri and Arkansas.  These two businesses, especially Wal-Mart, have transformed the way America shops and show that there is economic opportunity in the area.

In the writing of my previous articles, I have been contacted by multiple residents of the Rolla area, who like seeing a UMR student enjoy his surroundings.  Some are lifelong Ozark residents while others are transplants from cities as close as St. Louis and as far as California.  The transplants all moved here by choice.  I remain in contact with many and have placed some of their quotes about the Ozarks below.

Patty Frisbee – UMR Coordinator of Student Services. Patty and her husband live between St. James and Steelville.

“My husband Stan and I moved to this area about 23 years ago.  We have enjoyed the wide-open areas that the country life has provided along with the fresh air and wildlife around us.  Living in a small town allows you to get acquainted with quite a few folks in the area and when I go to town I always bump into friends and neighbors.  One of the experiences I like about the country but can’t find in the city is the feeling of by the time I drive through town, my hand is tired from waving to everyone I know who has crossed my path.”

Lindsey Bagnall – Assistant Vice President of the MSM/UMR Alumni Association and Assistant Director of Alumni And Constituent Relations

“My husband and I relocated to Rolla when we married.  He had been living in St. Louis, and I in Atlanta.  We knew we didn't want to build a life and raise children in any city, but rather in the clean air and trustworthy atmosphere of a small town.  At our home we have 60 acres of peace and quiet, filled with birds and wild animals with whom we share the land.  We don't have to worry about whether the neighbors think our grass is too long, or whether or not our house fits into the neighborhood.  If I head out for work at one specific time, I might hit the "rush 5-minutes", but otherwise it always takes me the same short amount of time to cover the 10 miles to work.

The people here are probably too trusting!  Let's hope we never have to turn into a place where we have to give up that trust.  When I first moved here, I was mortified to find I had gone into the grocery store in St. James and had left my car unlocked with my purse on the front seat.  Telling people about this elicited responses such as, "Well, you probably could have left your keys in the ignition, too - nobody's going to mess with your things here."  Quite a difference from Atlanta!

My best Ozark people experience occurred during a severe ice storm.  My husband and I were coming back from Kansas City to St. James, and once we turned onto Highway 8 off Highway 63, the road turned to an ice rink.  We limped along in our pitiful old van as far as we could go, and then we found a good place to pull off and park, thinking we'd just wait until the road crew came by.  We walked to the nearest house intending just to ask them to call the Highway Patrol to let them know we were there, and to try to find out how long it might be, and to let our family know we'd be delayed.  The folks who lived on this simple Ozark farm invited us in, wouldn't hear of us not staying there until our family came to get us, offered to drive us in their 4-wheel drive truck to town, gave us coffee and home-made pie, offered us dinner, offered us a bed for the night - they were incredible.  And they didn't know us at all.  After talking, we discovered we knew their son and daughter-in-law, and they knew our parents.  They also revealed that they went into St. James once a month for supplies, but that they never went to Rolla - the man had gone once and found it too "big city" for his liking!  They had never been farther away than that.   But they didn't need to be worldly to discover the real secrets of living the good life - they had all they needed and they were happy.  And they were 2 of the best human beings I've ever met.

Yes, there are problems in the Ozarks - we have drugs and guns and some crime.  The difference is you know who and where to avoid, and the problems are far outweighed by the good.”

Kevin Brady – Manager of Business and Fiscal Affairs – UMR Student Affairs

“I like being able to eat breakfast at my kitchen table while I look out at the rolling Ozark hills and then be at work after only a 4-mile commute.  And Rolla has a healthy environment to raise children.  We are close enough to enjoy some urban amenities and still enjoy life without the hustle and bustle of living in the city.”

This winter, I received two practically identical engineering related job offers in my field of Geological Engineering for the coming summer.  My first job offer was located in my hometown of St. Louis.  On my way to and from the interview, I sat in traffic and dealt with other unhappy drivers on the crowded I-270.  My second interview was with a company located near Ft. Leonard Wood.  My potential boss and other co-workers were hospitable in the typical Ozark manner.  On my way home from this interview, I drove the mostly empty old U.S. Route 66 through Devils Elbow, MO.  This stretch of road, considered to be one of the most scenic drives in the Midwest, is a relief when compared to the hustle and bustle of I-270 in St. Louis.  The day after the second interview, I accepted the job near Ft. Leonard Wood and rejected the one in St. Louis.

Although the lyrics to “Ridin’ The Storm Out” by rock group REO Speedwagon refer to life in the Rocky Mountains, I feel that some of the song could just as well be applied to the Ozarks.  I have concluded this article is concluded with their lyrics.

Ridin' The Storm Out” by REO Speedwagon

Ridin' the storm out, waitin' for the thaw out
On a full moon night in the Rocky Mountain winter.
My wine bottle's low, watching for the snow
I've been thinking lately of what I'm missing in the city.

And I'm not missing a thing
Watchin' the full moon crossing the range
Ridin' the storm out
Ridin' the storm out.

My lady's beside me, she's there to guide me.
She says that alone we've finally found home.
The wind outside is frightening,
but it's kinder than the lightning life in the city.
It's a hard life to live but it gives back what you give.

Thanks to the November 2001 Issue of National Geographic Magazine, the Meramec Music Theatre (http://www.misn.com/MMT), Rolla Daily News, November 1, 2001 issue, Store Wars (http://www.pbs.org/storewars/story.html), the Steelville chamber of Commerce (http://www.misn.com/Steelville), and CorpWatch.org (http://www.corpwatch.org/news/PND.jsp?articleid=90) for some of the information presented here.  For more information on the Ozark culture and landscape, watch the videos “Don’t It Feel Like Home” (specifically on Steelville) by Tom Shipley and Alex Primm, A Portrait of The Ozarks – Shannon County Parts I & II by the Center For Ozark Studies, The Ozarks – Just That Much Hillbilly In Me but by Mark Biggs, or take some time to talk with a resident Ozarker.  All of the above videos may be found in the UM-Rolla library and are excellent documentaries on the area.  Feel free to visit Steelville.  They welcome tourists and some drunk won’t shoot you with a shotgun.  The town is located about 30 miles from Rolla.  To get there, follow I-44 east to St. James (exit 195). Follow Hwy 8 southeast (right) until it runs into Steelville.  Maramec Spring is also along the way.

Steelville is not far from Rolla.  Maramec Spring, shown here
as "First Iron Furnace in Missouri" and many floating
rivers bring people from all around to visit the town.